8/9/97

 Ashdod's open door

    Come in, sit down, eat something, speak your mind. Or just listen. But make sure you say hello to the ol' lady in the corner
    Ellen Dunn's apartment is Ashdod's grand central station. High-society it ain't: a seedy two-room walk-up in the decaying old Moroccan neighborhood,  humble, strictly functional, and if you think Ellen's gonna offer any excuses, forget it. 
    This is not, as homes can be, an expression of self, an existential statement, a symbol: it's an address, nothing more. Good thing, too, because Ellen's life cannot be represented by walls. 
    If there is a metaphor for her 67 years alive, it's her open house policy. Folks come and go, the wind blows in or doesn't, you never know who or what to expect. She's unfettered by convention, by expectations, by nothing but a bum leg that is her only harness. She's not even held back by what people think.
    "Couldn't find anything but lies in Christianity, so I read. I'm a big reader. I read myself right into Judaism." She was 42 when she converted, Orthodox, in Brookline, Massachusetts. "Told the rabbi I was gonna live in Israel. Don't know why I said that, I never even thought it, but here I am, an Israeli."
    A couple of American ladies step in and flop onto the couch, which has borne a lot of tushies in service to Ellen. A curt nod from the corner is enough of a welcome. "Gwan, eat," she commands gruffly.
    The stoppers-by have plenty to talk about, most of it Ashdod gossip. Ellen grins, smirks, chortles, lights up a smoke, directs a barbed comment or two. Her eyes dart to the door; Valentina, an animated Russian woman, enters. 
    "Hiya. Drinks're over there."
    An American leaves with a flourish, replaced by a Canadian and a Brit, and an older couple -- a dapper yekke and his Yemenite wife -- with nothing to say. The old gossip is passed on and new subjects arise. It's getting crowded; the Canadian says toodloo. 
    Almost unnoticed is a tight-lipped, humorless young Russian woman named Rena who immigrated half a year ago, to the day. She seems lost in the English-language jabber, but it turns out she was an English teacher "in a secret city near Ekaterinburg." When talk moves on to The Jewish Question, she suddenly blurts out that nowhere in the world is it safe to be a Jew but here in Israel. Joanna, an erudite, thoughtful woman who grew up free in the Land of the Free,  can't let that go by, and the chitchat turns to hot debate. The confrontation is uncomfortable for some, but over there in the smoky corner, Ellen's loving it.   
    There's enough food on the coffee table for 100 hungry people, but the noshers and nibblers hardly make a dent -- until Yitz bursts in. Yitz is a potbellied former banana picker from the Bronx (I know there's no bananas growing in the Bronx: that's what he did for three years on kibbutz). 
    Yitz, avuncular and voiceful, guffaws at Ellen. "Jeez, didya see what's goin' on downstairs? They got a goddam casino goin' on down there!" 
    Ellen shrugs. "No kiddin'. Police been here three times already, they shut 'em down, but they can't stop 'em." She laughs raspily. "Wanna join 'em?"
    She speaks affectionately about her Moroccan neighbors, who always drop in when they're not busy with, uh, other things. "Noisy, but I love 'em. This guy downstairs, when I screwed up my leg, couldn't get down to the mailbox, turns out he was taking out my bills and paying them himself. Didn't tell me about it. Wouldn't even take the money back when I found out."
    Stay long enough, and you'll go out that door with a couple of Ellen's tales, perhaps a philosophy if you ask for it.
    "Got this bill from Income Tax. A million shekels. They didn't know who they were dealing with. Then they drop it to 80,000 and start jerking around with my bank account, then 50,000 and I tell 'em good luck Charlie. I tell 'em, 'if I wait long enough you'll be paying me.' Heh heh! It got down to a few shekels and then they became adamant. So did I. Eventually some computer burped and they paid me 2,500. Heh heh!"  
    She's blonde, weighty, a former symphonic oboist. She believes in reincarnation -- judging by her eyes alone, she might've been an eagle once -- and says she's had mysterious experiences throughout her life. Parallel to finding her Judaism, she tracked down her natural family, one at a time -- including her brother, who had been "officially" dead for 22 years, since World War II. "His brain was altered by the US Navy. They faked his death. He knew something dangerous. He couldn't tell me, no one ever did."
    When Ellen found her parents, she opened a new door -- to her generational roots. Their parents became known to her, and theirs and theirs and theirs. "We've got this family tree now. Goes back to 90 BCE."
    What?!"
    "Really. Give me a minute, I'll go get the window shade."
    She comes back with an old-fashioned spring-mechanism blind, and unrolls it. Meticulously, in pencil, she has drawn the Temple family descendency from Ellen Dunn to Harderick, the earliest known Saxon king. "He claimed to be the ancestor of Wotan the Norse sun god. Interesting, eh?"
    (They won't admit it, but half the people crowded around for a look are nostalgically excited by the window shade.)
    She explains that land-ownership records in England made it possible to go that far back.
    If a penciled entry on a window shade is proof enough, her mishpocha includes Alfred the Great, first king of England, and a Crusader who was buried under the walls of Acre. And Leofric. 
    Leofric married Lady Godiva. 
    "No kidding!"
    "Yeah. But she's only related by marriage."
    You can be sure if Lady Godiva's reincarnation walked through the door here, Ellen wouldn't be at all surprised.