18/5/98
We're
losing our Ramot control
I've lived in Ramot
for seven months now, and
except for a jawing I had
with a shopkeeper, nothing
has yet happened worth mentioning.
It doesn't figure.
There are almost 50,000
people here, and no commerce.
There are eight million
haredim in Ramot, and no
turbulence. One bank, two
pizzerias, a crappy commercial
center no one goes to. There
are no restaurants, and
no restaurant elsewhere
in town will deliver to
Ramot. There is one makolet
per 5,000 people, and I'm
not exaggerating.
I checked with Dvora
at the local minhal kehilati:
how many businesses are
there altogether in Ramot?
I asked. It took her a minute
to find the list, and a
second to estimate the total:
a few dozen, and that includes
the old man wandering about
with a sack on his shoulder,
buying alte zachen
(old things).
If you want to meet
fellow Ramotians on shopping
day, you go to Ramot Eshkol,
which is not exactly walking
distance.
It has been widely
assumed that Ramot was given
over to the Palestinian
Authority, because you never
read about Ramot in the
newspapers. At least, not
since many years ago, when
the haredim went bananas
over the Ramot Road, and
before that, when the haredim
went bananas over the Ramot
Pool. (They lost both battles,
as witness the stalwart
continued existence of both
Road and Pool.)
Since that time,
the only thing my neighbors
have to talk about (when
we meet at the Ramot Eshkol
shopping center) is the
controversy over the placement
of dumpsters. (You think
I'm kidding.)
Then, suddenly, a
couple of weeks ago, I got
junk mail. I'm sure every
household here reacted with
the same excited frenzy
as I did, losing our Ramot
control: the circus is coming
to town!
Of course, no circus
would come to dozy Ramot.
It was actually the
Ramle-Lod Shuk, but for
us, that promises to be
a circus.
"Finally finally,
coming to Ramot, every Tuesday,"
blared the flier. "Best
prices in the country!!!
The biggest shuk in the
city!" (Well, sure:
the second-biggest shuk
in Ramot City consists of
one old Arab lady sitting
on the sidewalk selling
parsley.)
To think that dozens
of vendors were coming all
the way here from Ramle-Lod
to holler "Socks! Five
shekels! Yalla, yalla!"
at me and my fellow Ramotians
-- it was like La Scala
coming here to perform.
I don't know anyone
in either Ramle or Lod,
so I couldn't confirm that
this was really a world-class
shuk. Maybe, I thought,
it's such a lousy shuk that
it's fleeing the fed-up
Ramlean-Lodites. If that's
so, they knew where to come.
We're starved for culture.
Came Tuesday, a week ago.
Ramot was abuzz.
Oh, there were hordes,
and everyone asked each
other, "This
is the shuk?"
What happened is
this: The organizers forgot
to tell the vendors. Two
guys showed up, one hawking
shoes, the other, tee-shirts.
(That works out to one vendor
per 25,000 Ramotians, which
is about average.)
"Big screw-up,"
the latter told me in an
exclusive interview. "But
word's getting around now,
and next Tuesday, I promise,
we'll all be here."
No matter who wins the elections.
"Where you from,"
I asked him journalistically,
"Ramle or Lod?"
"Modi'in,"
he answered.
He estimated that
by mid-afternoon, at least
2,000 people had already
come, looking for the shuk.
But you know how we are
here: nobody was disappointed.
Even now, just a week later,
you can tell the difference
in Ramot: everyone's walking
around with new shoes and
new tee-shirts.
I feel we should
show gratitude to Ramle-Lod,
somehow, but I don't know
what we can offer in return.
Maybe we could send the
parsley lady in a sort of
Shuttle Shuk Diplomacy.
Today we should get
at least as many shuk-shoppers
as election-voters, even
if it turns out there are
more prime-ministerial candidates
than vendors.
Once the rest of
the country takes notice,
the next thing you know,
Tel Aviv will send over
a real cafe for a day. Beersheba
will export its famous livestock
auction.
A berry festival
from the Golan, right here
in Ramot! A caravan of mezuza
repairmen from Bnei Brak!
An exhibition of nude sunbathers
from Eilat! Car thieves
from Gaza! Troublemakers
from Mea Shearim!
Ramot will become
the commercial and cultural
crossroads of Israel, the
barnstorming capital of
the Middle East. This is
how cities like New York
got started.
Let it be remembered
that when Ramot wakes up
this morning, rubs its collective
eyes and harks its collective
ears to the unbelievable-but-true
rhapsody of shuk vendors'
collective clarion bellows,
it will be the dawn of a
new day for The Suburb That
Never Wakes Up.
Shuk Day in Ramot!
Wonder where they're
going to put the dumpsters.